Guides' blogs for Libya
Carol Turner, returned from the Libyan Sahara (08/04/2010)
Easter Sunday – how appropriate to be greeted by Spring sunshine and daffodils nodding in the breeze as we make our way home from the airport, still gritty with Saharan sand after a wonderful week in the desert.
It was hot, with a welcome wind most of the time. We slept under the stars and a bright full moon - some of the group even gave up bothering to erect a tent, especially on windy nights when we had to ‘sandbag’ them to keep them from blowing away!
In the glorious Akakus Mountains the incredible rock art and carvings of the people and their animal life, which prevailed there up to 10,000 years ago, illustrate how the desert floor was lush and green, fed by water courses and teeming with the exotic beasts of Africa – so difficult to imagine now. Travelling through the sands (dune driving is such a lot of fun), all we saw were wild camels - quite a lot of them this time - peering at us disdainfully before stalking off into the horizon.
In February, I was asked to help the wife of a Tuareg desert dweller; apparently her hand was very badly infected, but I was not permitted to see her as these people are incredibly shy and private. Now, a month later, I was much relieved to be allowed to meet her and see for myself that she had used the antiseptic, poultice and dressings I gave her, and although still sore, her hand was healing and the infection gone.
As I said, it was hot. Crossing the desert floor, we stopped at a well and luxuriated in drenching ourselves, fully clothed, in water… the desert’s ultimate luxury. Driving through the little town of Ubari, I was very pleased to discover that as their ‘winter’ is now over (the temperature generally around 100º F/40º C and rising), the freezers in the shops were again stocked up and we were able to indulge in ice-cream – absolute heaven! Suitably refreshed, we went on to camp in the dunes surrounding the oases where it was just glorious to be swimming in the middle of a sea of sand.
I loved seeing how much the group enjoyed the desert as well as the magnificence of the great Roman ports of Sabratha and Leptis Magna against their backdrop of blue, blue sea. A marvellous trip, a marvellous country to visit.
Carol in Libya - II (25/11/2009)
Heading into the desert, we stopped in Ubari, a small dusty town, to get kitted out with our ashesh (Tuareg turban), not just to look the part but to protect our heads from the sun, wind and sand. We all looked great in them for a few hours, but re-tying them caused some hysteria until we got the hang of it, Cecilia developing such expertise, her services were much in demand every morning.
We all loved the great Saharan sands, the incredible ancient rock art, sleeping under the stars, trying to solve solitaire puzzles in the sand which the Tuareg taught us and the evenings around their campfire while they drummed, handclapped and danced to their traditional songs … and then our own shameful inability to drum up any sing-able songs beyond the first verse – next time I will go armed with appropriate songsheets!
Our drivers, who love exhibiting their skill at dune driving, seem to navigate by instinct, but It took two hours to locate our lunch yesterday – well, what reference points can one give in these great seas of sand? The day was special for coming upon a boy herding a very over-friendly young camel and some goats, who shyly showed us his few treasures; arrowheads from Neolithic times. And not far away, some desert homesteads. How on earth do these desert people survive the winter in their humble palm-frond dwellings?
And today we splashed about in the saline water of a Beau Geste oasis! The surface water was chilly, but once in, we found delicious currents of hot water to bob about in; struggling to keep our feet down, we managed some pretty neat Formation Swimming patterns!
Now I begin to understand the desert mania which has gripped so many of our explorer and military forebears, and we have our own treasures gleaned from the sands – pieces of pottery made by the hands of people living here 14,000 years ago! Such a great group - so appreciative and so much laughter. But it’s time to return to the real world. Naomi, a midwife working in Abu Dabi, gave a speech of thanks on our behalf to our Tuareg team - in perfect maternity Arabic!
Carol in Libya (24/11/2009)
Following in Tom’s wake, I have been completely captivated by Libya and the Sahara - and I really do have the best job in the world!
Taken out of my Asian comfort zone, I wondered if I would fit in as a group leader here where women are indeed respected, but still shrouded from public gaze in what is Africa’s 4th largest country officially known as The Great Socialist People's Libyan Arab Jamahiriya with it’s plain green flag and the Colonel’s massive face posted up everywhere. But what you get is a really open, friendly and relaxed atmosphere, the warmest of welcomes and the charm of the people. Tripoli is all white with green doors, flavours of it’s Italian past, palm trees and the blue, blue Mediterranean sea.
The ancient coastal cities established by the Phoenicians, developed magnificently by the Romans and ravaged by the Vandals, are simply awesome for their very size, stature and beauty; the mosaics (mercifully rescued by Italian archaeologists and placed in museums to protect them) are known to be the most exquisite of the Roman era. We are so fortunate to have Alex with us – an expert who puts everything into context for us and it’s a joy to see his own enthusiasm for what we are experiencing.
And now to the desert…
What a fabulous country! Tom in Libya. (15/11/2009)
Journeying home after another fabulous week with Wildfrontiers, and I am reflecting on the adventure that has so quickly – and always does – flash by (like one of the many shooting stars overhead while we camped in the desert). A great group goes a long way to compliment a great itinerary and although things didn’t always go to plan, the laughter of those travelling and beauty of the surroundings made for a fantastic adventure. Libya, where to start? A country ruled by ‘The Great Leader’, decorated by the Venetians, then the Romans and the Byzantines. A desert that has been adorned with rock art dating back 12,000 years to the time of a land before sand. A time when the Sahara was as full of life as the Serengeti and wild animals roamed free. A land of oil, politics, controversy and yet not a single alcoholic beverage in sight. But don’t be put off. As our group wandered around the incredibly delicate mosaics of Sabratha, gasped at the thought of the gladiators doing battle in Leptis Magna’s Amphitheatre and then flew south…for most the best was yet to come. Driving into an unknown world, where every which way you turned a different unimaginable rockscape highlighted the cruel battle of wind on rock. Monolithic structures rising out of the dunes, caves painted and engraved thousands of years before with animals inconceivable in such a now barren place. Welcome to the Akakus. Then as you accept and adjust to this harsh beauty we move to the neighbouring sand sea, with the effortless curves of dune after dune after dune. The most beautiful orange painted sand against the brightest ‘sky’ blue. Each night we camp under a canopy of stars and watch them rotate and twinkle around us. Then it is a quick swim in the salty oasis before returning home and all too quickly leaving the desert behind. I remember the phrase of ethical travellers; ‘leave only footprints and take only pictures’ but really it should say, ‘…take only pictures and great memories’. Libya does not disappoint.
Tom (soon to depart on my 5 month holiday…Festivities and Happy New Year for 2009/10 to you all, maybe I’ll see you in S.America) Safe Travelling. Click here for mine and Nic's blog while away.
Sandy success in a country of ruins - Libya (05/04/2009)
It is Sunday night and I have just arrived home, shattered. Another jam packed tour which saw us all exploring the wonderful Acacus mountains with its rock formations and ancient art, the wonderful Wan Caza Sand Sea and then the oasis lakes in Ubari before more magnificent ruins within the roman city of Leptus Magna. It feels like we have been discovering this dramatic country for significantly longer than the 9 days we have been here. In that time we realise that Libya's tourism is still in its infancy, with tourists still abundant at the popular sites but plenty of space in which to loose them in the south where the beauty of the desert requires a little more commitment. 'The hottest destination' as many publications are happy to label Libya could see a huge increase in tourists to this still sleepy but familiar and friendly country. Libya hopes it can one day replicate the tourism influx that Tunisia and Egypt experience. I hope that they don't. The service isn't always brilliant and you need to remain flexible for any eventuality that could occur. It is this that makes it an exciting country, because things don't always run to plan. The governments focus on the oil industry and their neglect towards tourism ensures that the 5* hotels and coastal resorts might be stunted from sprouting up on every beautiful and open spot. Therefore keeping those tourists at bay. The ones that most of us look to travel to avoid. An exciting destination and one, which like anywhere else, could soon become swamped by the inevitable increase in tourism. Take me back to the desert. Tom
Libya - Sand, Sun and Sea...mixed with some Roman ruins and couscous (28/03/2009)
Welcome from Libya, the green country. Well, the country with a green flag and lots of green buildings. It is exciting to be back in this wonderful country, where hospitality and tea are bathed in glorious sunshine. This morning before the group arrived I decided to go to a Hammam for my first Libyan sweat through. Well, I hadn't realised that I needed much of a wash, but the cleaner/masseur obviously thought otherwise. With three distinct phases I wasn't sure when to tense in anticipation of the next beating or relax. Phase one - the soothing application of soap, gentle body wash. Phase two - the intense scrubbing (with what felt like a steel brush) of nearly every part of your body. Phase three - the relocation of various large muscle groups and dowsing in cold water. But afterwards...I can't imagine ever having been cleaner. And all for the cost of a pint in London. The new improved, clean me was then off to meet and greet at the airport. From having arrived smoothly we explored the old medina before wandering the wide open streets to our restaurant. Three lovely food courses later and it was a quick coffee or beer (alcohol free) before heading back to our hotel for bed. Tomorrow is set up to visit Sebratha, with its wonderful Mediterranean location coupled with the fabulous theatre and mosaics. Then an evening flight will deliver us to Sebha where we can begin our journey into the desert and discover the other (rather sandy) world that hides amongst the dunes. I'll let you know how it has been when we return to the city on Saturday. That is if I can be dragged out of a landscape I have fallen in love with. Oh. Have I mentioned how hot and sunny it is! Tom
Leaving the desert, entering the office, running a half marathon. (04/12/2008)
I am a little late in updating about the Libya tour as I sit here in Fulham 2 weeks after having returned from the Land of the Big 'G'. The tour continued brilliantly through the Sahara, searching out millennia old rock art and exploring the Acacus mountains before heading towards the Ubari lakes. Driving through pristine dunes, across seemingly untouched landscapes while camping under the stars, meant that it was saddening to have to then leave after 4 nights there and return to the capital. Some brief shopping time then in Tripoli and our short break in the amazing country of Libya had come to an end. We all boarded the flight home and arrived safely with bags of sand in tow. So now its back to the grindstone...well to the keyboard anyway as I try to adapt to office life and the confines of four walls.
I also need to thank all of you who sponsored me for running my half marathon for 'No More Landmines' a charity that speaks for itself in the work that it does. I was due to run the London half marathon in October but was delayed in India with a wonderful tour in Rajasthan. Anyway i finally organised myself and ran one last weekend in Norwich. Luckily not the week before as they'd had snow at the weekend. So I ran on a rather bleak Sunday with 2000 other runners and impressed myself by completing it in 1hr 32mins, which rather surprised me. But hey, thanks again and if you want to donate because it passed you by before then go to www.justgiving.co.uk/skipwithtom...be quick the page will disappear soon. Thanks again and hope you all have a festive time and Happy New Year.
Libya Unveiled – Land of the big ‘G’ (13/11/2008)
I write this while sitting in the Saharan back of beyond under a nearly full moon. Now day four and we’ve already seen some magical sites having just flown down from Tripoli last night. Leptis Magna – the best preserved Roman city outside of Rome – provided a mesmerising insight into the lavish lifestyles of those commanding an empire. Then we headed off to the second of the three ancient cities Sabratha, well known for its intricate mosaics. After various outings into the souq of the old city, searching for Gaddafi posters and the less interesting Libyan flag, we flew last night down to the southern town of Sebha. While travelling, we quickly realised the big ‘G’ didn’t write a chapter on airport efficiency in his Green Book – written to aid the command of any socialist empire. We have now set up camp, are sitting around in our Tuareg dress – Ashuersh head dresses looking a little more like a turban with a chin strap – waiting for our presumed Libyan dinner of local soup, meat with couscous and fruit salad. There are excited whisperings from the group as rumours circulate that dinner will follow the same format as all our other meals. Food is being delivered as the temperature drops and I need to get more clothes. Soon I have the luxury of snuggling up under the stars next to Stanley. Fortunately there’s lots of space, as those who know Stan would realise. Updates shall follow, adventures in the Sahara still to come.
