Wild Frontiers Blog
Below you find on-the-road blog entries from our intrepid staff and tour leaders. This exciting, new idea will give you day-to-day updates on everything from best hotel bedrooms, eclipses in Mongolia to life on the streets of Pakistan and Tibet! So read, enjoy and be inspired to join them...
Displaying blog entries 1 to 5 of 235
Chris Begg's blog from Yemen (04/03/2010)
Day 1
Arrive in Sana’a capital of Yemen. This is a magical city with beautiful buildings and an enormous souk. –People very friendly – a man in the street invites me to hold his rifle while we are photographed. People are just happy that we made the effort to come here. There are just six of us on the tour, and Sue from Zimbabwe is not feeling well. A visit to the hospital and pleurisy is diagnosed – she is kept in hospital. The insurance company asks: “Do you want to go home to be treated?”. No thanks – the hospitals are much better in Yemen!
Day 2
The original plan was to visit the island of Socotra today, but the flight was cancelled, so Mette our tour leader has arranged a trip into the countryside- and what countryside! The fortress village of Kawkaban overlooks the village of Shibam Kawakaban and the scenery is majestic. We walk downhill between the two. Back to Sana’a for a good rummage in the souk and get thoroughly lost in the old town.
Day 3
We have to say a temporary goodbye to Sue and her husband Jeremy as they stay in Sana’a until the doctors give her the thumbs up. We fly to Hadibo, principal town of Socotra. The views over the mountains and desert as we fly the width of Yemen are magnificent. Hadibo itself is small and relatively unspoilt – three or four small hotels no larger than two stories. Sadly there is a lot of rubbish in the streets, but the friendly local restaurant rustles up a superb Kingfish meal with wonderful naan bread.
Day 4
We go walking in the hills. The plan was for five hours’ walking, but Christobel is keen to go trekking. Tour manager Mette takes this in her stride - she and Kaye go for an eight hour trek with Mette, and Gloria and I go with local guide Meetag for the five hour walk. Or we would, but the camels have not arrived to bring the camping equipment. Insh’Allah as they say here – God willing. Camels arrive and are loaded and we are ready to go at noon, in the heat. Luckily it’s overcast, as the walk turns out to be a scramble, steep up and down hill over loose rocks, and fighting our way through trees. I am concerned that with my unfitness our five hour walk will take more than six and end up in the dark, but Gloria’s unstinting cheerfulness, and Meetag’s kind and generous encouragement actually means that we do finish before five hours – and the trekkers have already set up our tents! It’s almost killed me, but the mountains are unbelievable. There are local Beduin who live part of the year in a cave who make us welcome, and a gift of tea, coffee, and sugar pays our camping fee.
Day 5
Another day walking, through Socotra’s largest forest of its unique Dragon’s Blood Trees, which look like they come from another planet. Again the scenery is unbelievable, and this time the weather sunny and hot – perfect for photos. We meet up again with Jeremy and a fully recovered Sue, and travel down to a beautiful small lake for a swim and much needed cool off. Next we go down to the coast to camp on the beach.
On Socotra you can’t swim and relax on beaches near villages as the locals understandably don’t like swimwear, but there are designated camp sites in protected areas where no offence is caused.
It’s still hot, and a goat decides to lie on my tent in the shade, breaking one of the poles. Frankly, I don’t care – I can get my sleeping bag out and sleep on the beach.
We also meet a delegation of VIPs and are introduced to the governor of Hadhramawt (on the mainland), and the deputy transport minister – dates and coffee are offered to us. They are very pleased to see tourists from Britain (and Australia, Denmark and Zimbabwe). A journalist from a Hadhramawt newspaper interviews us, and Mette gets the chance to sing the praises of Wild Frontiers. I point out that this is a very good company – they employ a local guide from Socotra to provide good quality employment opportunities – rather than taking a guide from Sana’a, and say that this should be the rule. Insh’Allah!
Day 6
We have a relaxing day on the beach, and Australian diver Kaye is kind enough to teach me snorkeling.– I’d recommend learning at home in a swimming pool and then you know how to snorkel and just have to cope with the realities of the outdoors, rather than all at once. Nevertheless I get to see some beautiful fish (and Kaye and Mette see far more), and I can always boast about where I learned to snorkel! Up sticks and off to the west of the island for a different beach camp.
Day 7
This is just the most beautiful beach with a stunning lagoon. Walk round much of the lagoon. A local fisherman catches a stingray in a net (for his tea), and shows us a rather large spike for a small ray, and the poison sack. Best avoided! We camp on the beach.
Day 8
The plan is to take a boat trip around the headland, and one of the two boats is captained by yesterday’s fisherman! On the way out we encounter a pod of perhaps a hundred dolphins, leaping out of the water, and one or two doing somersaults and one doing a back-flip. Can this trip get any better? Another beautiful beach, and would you believe it – we encounter more (larger) dolphins on the way back. Sadly, we leave for Hadibo and spend the night there.
Day 9
We fly to Aden, and say goodbye to the ever-cheerful Gloria. She has been to Yemen before, and only came for Socotra. Nothing seems to be too much trouble for Wild Frontiers! We visit the magnificent cisterns in Aden – of uncertain age, but quite vast, they were re-discovered and excavated by the British – quite intriguing. The hotel is the best in Aden and I understand that Wild Frontiers wanted to give us a good hotel after “roughing it” a bit on Socotra, but the Sheraton could be anywhere in the world – were it not for the metal detector on the way in, and the sign saying “No Guns. No Jambiyyas” (the local men all wear the fierce looking curved Jambiyya knife, but it’s only used for dancing).
Day 10
We drive to Ta’iz. We want to go cross-country along a wadi (and have the paperwork to say we can, but the local police say no, so it’s the main road). On the way we stop at Yafrus and see the fascinating Sheikh Ahmed bin Alwan Mosque. In Ta’iz we visit the souk, buy frankincense and myrrh, and try the excellent local smoked goats cheese.
Day 11
More Ta’iz sightseeing – the Al-Ashrafiyyah mosque is one of the few in Yemen which non-Muslims may visit, and is in a state of restoration, but still well worth seeing. Up the mountain for a stunning viewpoint, then visit a charming lady for tea and henna hand decorations for the ladies. She is used to Western visitors, and is quite happy to remove the headscarf and relax with us. Onwards, though, to Jiblah and the Queen Arwa mosque. Yemenis are proud of their queens (the Queen of Sheba being more famous), but it is still a very male dominated society! Queen Arwa’s palace is seemingly held up by scaffolding, but restoration is, we are told, progressing. Insh’allah!
Finally to Ibb – and here many of the streets cannot take cars, so an even more relaxed (medieval?) atmosphere pertains, and we visit the Artists house.
Day 12
Today we visit the Western coastal region, nearest to Ethiopia. This is much more African influenced than the rest of the country, many of the inhabitants are originally from Africa. The city of Zabid used to be a centre of Sufi learning, and is reminiscent of Timbuktu. Then we travel up through a dramatic gorge in the direction of Sana’a to Manakha. The hotel’s owner has six daughters and four sons, all talented musicians and dancers. They stage a mock wedding for Kaye, complete with rifles and Jambiyya – talk of a shotgun wedding!
Day 13
Some of us go for a short walk in the Haraz Mountains, starting in Hutayb with a small but beautiful Tayyibi Isma’ili tomb, and a very different feel, and a lovely walk to a small village. Mette and Kaye heads out for a full days trekking amongst fortified Yemeni mountain villages. In the afternoon Christobel leaves a day early (again – nothing seems too much trouble for Wild frontiers), and we visit Al Haghera. It’s an iconic village, basically because the bus goes there so tourists can access it easily, and was the only place where we got “tourist hassled” by kids.
Tomorrow
We will travel via Wadi Dahr to Sana’a for our final night.
Afterward
I haven’t mentioned the food very much, but it’s excellent. Ful is like re-fried beans. Goat is excellent. Saltah is an excellent fenugreek flavoured stew. Fish is wonderful on Socotra.
The people are extremely friendly and helpful.
Many thanks to Wild Frontiers for continuing the holiday for just six, and in the face of a possible security problem. Particular thanks to Ali and Meetag local guides and the drivers. Above all, kudos to Mette, tour leader extraordinaire, who can cope with non-existent camels and recalcitrant clients with equal aplomb.
Chris Beggs
Kaye’s Blog From Socotra – Yemen (22/02/2010)
Mette has asked for my observations on Socotra. I think the best description is an amazing island of contrasts. From the forest with dragon’s blood trees as far as the eye can see to the biggest pod of dolphins that I have ever seen. Every day has been unique. The options of eating fish with rice; rice with fish; fish rice & rice fish are also endless. The initial expectation is of a small island so when you first see the expansive beaches and the soaring mountains you know that you have come to a place that will be like nothing else in the world – even the vultures are pretty. It has been a real privilege to spend time here and the highlights for me have been reaching the top of a mist covered ridge to see a magnificent view to the sea; drinking tea with a family in a cave high on a hilltop; swimming in a wadi pool; going to sleep under the stars and snorkeling from the shore and being able to see incredibly healthy coral and so many different and colourful tropical fish. The main town of Hadibo is a dusty, rubbish strewn place so it’s hard to believe that crystal clear turquoise water and sandy white beaches are so nearby. The holiday hasn’t been without danger – from a large hairy brown jumping spider to stingrays we’ve had to be on the lookout for potential hazards and that’s even before the ever present and hungry goats turn up. I’ve really enjoyed my time on Socotra and will enjoy remembering all the beautiful and amazing sights that really can’t be seen anywhere else in the world.
now complete with 6 adventurous souls (15/02/2010)
We are here and it is all good. In fact it is great and amazing. Met up with the group today and headed out to explore the old town of Saana. One of WF stalwarts, Gloria, is on the trip. I mee her in Botswana 5 years ago when she had her first attempt at camping and erecting tents amongst wildlife in the Okavango Delta. I expect her camping skills to be highly refined by now. Besides the odd European looking student of Arabic, embassy staff and various UN workers, the town is deserted of European presence. 80% of the staff at our hotels are from Ethiopia – much to my delight as I can practice my ever emerging Amharic. Since I studies at SOAS and got acquainted with the combined history of ancient Ethiopia and Yemen, it has been my dream to work in these two countries – and this is exactly what I am doing. It is by far the most fascinating part of our world today – from ancient times until present day, this is where things are happening.
We, however, had a relaxed and slowly paced day wandering throught the old city since the museum was closed for one reason or the other. We have an extra day in Saana due to flight cancellations to Socotra – a chance to visit some new areas in the surrounds and go shopping for a new camera (for me as I fell down a boulder and broke the lens on my large lump of digital SLR) and presents for the host communities on the trek. We also managed to be invited into a mosque which is something that does not happen frequently here. We just finished our dinner at the roof top terrace with views of the old city of Sanaa. It is getting late, and with the knowledge that I will be woken at 04.30am bed is calling!
Is it safe to travel to Yemen? (15/02/2010)
I will tell you when I get back…
Despite the foreign office advice and unrest in parts of mainland Yemen, Wild Frontiers has managed to get this great trip off the ground. Marc may have a full head (full head?? Dave) of gray hair (it will make him look very distinguished) and has made everyone in the WF office work extra hours (well done all) – but as a result, next week I am receiving 6 adventurous souls ready to travel through parts of this great country. It was with much excitement that I entered the old city of Sana'a – one of the most exotic places I have ever visited – on a rainy afternoon. It is great to be in a country which is very much its own – the architecture, the dress code, the food and the culture. One of the great things about Sana'a, besides the endless old mudbrick multistoried houses, is that you never need an alarm clock as the mosques are plentiful. I arrived back in Yemen last week to spend some time prior to our group’s arrival making sure everything was in place. Arriving before the group to make sure everything is in order is a privilege of tour leading, I spent a week on the enchanting island Socotra trekking, swimming and beachcombing (thanks for that treat!). Socotra is one special and unique island both in terms of linguistic and cultural history as well as regards to flora and fauna. Upon arrival in Hadibo, I headed straight into the Haghier Mountains with Meetaq our friend and local guide. On the trip we do a 3 day trek to the heartland of Socotra – through serene landscapes with endemic trees and plants and inhabited by mountain Bedouin who live a transhumance pastoral lifestyle. A fantastic walk and the people were great. At this time of year, the end of winter, families live in small houses on rocky outcrops or in caves. As we walked along we meet herders offering us fresh milk and were invited in for tea. I have never visited a more fascinating and surprisingly sophisticated dwelling. And the milky sugary tea was delicious and energizing after a 7 hours trek. The next couple of days I sample the local cuisine (fish, fish, fish and more fish), walked on pristine sandy beaches, explored the largest cave in the Middle East, made new friends and meet only one tourist. I left the island with a reassurance that the 6 people, who had chosen to travel to Yemen despite all the issues occurring over the last 4 weeks, will undertake a very special journey.
There are more advantages than disadvantages of travelling to Yemen at this particular time. First of all, it is safe! Secondly, the people welcome you with open arms you look after you so well it makes me embarrassed of how we treat foreigners in my country of birth (Denmark). Lastly, there are no other tourists. Back in Saana this afternoon, I checked in to our great hotel, Burj Al
Salaam located in the middle of Old Saana, for a well deserved shower and scrub down before I head out to meet the group tomorrow morning.
Johnny Paterson in Sri Lanka (12/02/2010)
It seem's like yesterday since I was last here in Sri Lanka having a wonderful time exploring it for the first time. I loved it then and it's done everything to coninue my entrancement. Last year the civil war that continued to stifle life and the economy of the north of the country was apparently coming to an end and indeed it did that soon after my return. Of course the ramifications will continue for years to come and though the north of the island remains difficult to visit, right now Sri Lanka is enjoying the resurgence it deserves as a tourist destination. I'm back in it's former Capital, Kandy, today with Wild Frontiers' first ever group trip here and enjoying the rich vibrance of its culture of which this city is the the renowned centre. We have already explored the cultural triangle of the central north - the sites of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, and Sigirya; we rode elephants in the evening light through the forests and water at the edge of the Nuwarawewa reservoir; and hiked high in the Knuckles mountain range where the views are spectacular and the flora and fauna (as with everywhere in Sri Lanka) is of extraordinary variety. We are all completely over fed on the delicious local food and we haven't even reached the coast yet where the sea food is second to none. We're not even halfway throught the trip yet and we've done so much it seems as though we've been away a month. So now I must drag myself back to the market see if I can find some shoes and specs.
